Fabric properties and pattern piece layout affects the amount of fabric you will need for any project.

Pre-treat fabrics before cutting
If you will launder the garment, wash, dry & press the fabric before cutting the pattern pieces. If the garment will be dry-cleaned, either have the fabric dry-cleaned or well steam the fabric at home allowing it to fully dry before laying out your pattern.

Nap Layout may be required
To have the sheen of a fabric's nap run the same way, to position a fabric’s motif optimally, or to match plaids you may need to layout your pattern pieces from top to botton running the same way. This is not efficient for conserving fabric, but gived excellent results for a professional appearance with a uniform nap, matched plaids or having motifs in the same direction.
Nap = Fibers that stand up from the fabric weave causing a sheen or texture. (Examples: velvet, synthetic suede, corduroy, flannel, faux fur)
Nap Layout = pattern pieces are laid out on the fabric in the same direction (top to bottom) so all pieces uniformly reflect the fabrics sheen or texture.
Commerical patterns will normally list the amount of fabric needed for a With Nap or a Without Nap Layout.

When planning fabric layouts for your own design, keep in mind the need to layout pattern pieces on the Straight of Grain, (to have the garment hang straight and avoid twist) or, if you choose to add stretch or drape by laying out on the True Bias, indicate so in your planning as this will affect yardage requirements.

Grain = The direction of the woven fibers: warp is the long threads parallel to the selvage, weft are the crosswise threads.
Straight of Grain = Pattern layout lining up the long arrows (on commercial sewing patterns) with the fabric grain. Use a ruler to measure out from the selvage edge to line up your pattern piece with the grain line.
Selvage = the bound, finished edge of a woven fabric.
True Bias = True bias is an angle perpendicular to the grain.

Practice Pattern Layout
You can verify the amount of fabric you need before purchase by marking the expected fabric width on paper or tabletop at home (remember to account for whether you are cutting from a double or single layer). Lay out pattern pieces using the edge of the paper or table as it if were the fabric selvage; then measure the length of goods needed. A quickly drawn sketch can help record your plan.

When is Additional Fabric Needed?
With Nap Layout requires additional fabric as all pattern pieces are laid out on the straight of grain and running from top to bottom. Look for the fabric amount for a "With Nap" layout on commerical patterns or do your own layout planning before fabric purchase.
Fabric Repeat are the distinct repetition of a fabric pattern; the full amount of space on a fabric that it takes for a pattern or design to complete.
Motif is a prominent recurring design element, for which you may wish to plan placement.
Plaid is a fabric design made by crossing lengthwise and crosswise stripes. All plaid fabrics are made of pattern repeats. It is the arrangement of stripes, sizes and colors within a repeat that determines whether the plaid is considered even or uneven. When you work with plaids, you can expect some wasted fabric. Expect to purchase additional fabric to match line up the plaid and cut in single layers.

Where to Learn More
LESSON TWO on Layout and Cutting from the Free Sewing Lessons with Julie Culshaw on the generous Sew Whats New website.
Pattern Layout & Cutting Free lessons online at the non-profit Home Sewing Association's website, Sewing.org
Learn to Sew Basic and intermediate sewing lessons as well as help on pattern fitting from Sewing.org

Where to Find WEARABLE ART Patterns?
The Sewing Place is an extraordinary resource carrying Ambiance linings & Petersham, fabulous embellishment and pattern drafting eBooks from wearable art master Kenneth King (an excellent pattern drafting system!) as well as sewing patterns from the following independent artists:

PatternReview.com PR is a great resource for we who sew clothing for art, for expression, or for practicality. Join PR for an excellent sharing community, thorough reviews of both commercial and independent patterns, as well as plenty of opportunity for knowledge and encouragement.

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